Be Adorned, a love affair with vintage costume jewelry.

Costume jewelry by Coro, from the 1956-57 Fall Winter Montgomery Ward catalogue


I have an early memory. My grandmother's top drawer...a whisper of powdery perfume. On tip toes I carefully remove an old cardboard candy box and quietly sit. The cover comes off to reveal treasure. Strands of crystal and pearl, festive beads and jeweled brooches. A trove of earring pairs, in all shapes and sizes. This covert act has been carried out countless times, always with the same results, pure awe and delight. I fill my eyes but never touch, that might lead to discovery and I am without a doubt, in forbidden territory. Moments pass and soon the candy box is safely back in it's rightful place.

Since I can remember I have loved costume jewelry. My grandmothers modest collection was my first exposure. I bought MY very first piece at the age of 11. There was a little shop in our downtown that carried all kinds of accessories. This was the mid 60s and large showy rings were popular. In the front case was a whole tray full, $1 each......rhinestone and filigree in every color... but my favorite was a lithographed glass cabochon with a Fragonard-esque scene. The setting was heavily detailed in antique "gold". I remember the amused smile on the lips of the sales lady as she adjusted my purchase to fit. Later in my teen years I discovered "junk" shops. Nicer than the flea market but not as expensive as an antique store. This is when my serious collecting began. Every junk shop had a display case of used or vintage costume jewelry. Brooches became my favorite and to this day I still wear some of the fabulous pieces I acquired way back when.

At that time I knew nothing about signed costume jewelry but quality always stood out, so by default I ended up with some very collectible pieces. Times have changed and demand has skyrocketed, the public is much more knowledgeable than before so it is difficult to find rare and valuable vintage costume for short money. You can however pick up high quality unsigned pieces at reasonable cost. Most folks, like me, who buy to wear are more interested in the look rather than the name. Some of my favorite pieces are unsigned. Quality on the other hand is always important. Better rhinestones and crystals with sharp facets can be spotted from across the room. If rhinestones are prong set, all the better. Hand knotted simulated pearls can often look just like the real thing and high quality gold plating will not tarnish if properly cared for. Look for Rolled Gold or Gold Filled. Sterling silver costume is undervalued at this time, so you can really find some great values. Large sterling or vermeil brooches from the 1940s always make a stunning statement. Since vintage costume has become so popular there are lots of informative books on the market. Three that I like Warman's Jewelry by Christie Romero (fine jewelry and costume guide), Costume Jewelry by Judith Miller and Collectible Costume Jewelry by Cherri Simonds.

Til next time, Best to you Melody

Pre-order our book The Little Guide to Vintage Shopping

I'm so very excited! My book The Little Guide to Vintage Shopping is at the presses right now and early copies will be arriving next month. The book will be on the shelves this coming October but if you want yours in September (and signed) you can pre-order right now from our website. Orders will be shipped towards the end of next month.



I want to thank Quirk Books for being my publisher, and especially Mary Ellen Wilson, editor extraordinaire! Our little guide focuses on how to buy vintage clothing and accessories but it also includes a bit of fashion history, as well as practical advice on caring for and cleaning your vintage wardrobe. Quirk always puts out wonderful AND affordable books. Ours is just $18.95 (plus shipping) but don't let the low price fool you, it's so loaded with tips, tricks and advice that even the veteran shopper will learn new things. PLUS there are lots of great pictures. Since vintage is all about celebrating fashion I tried to make it a fun read, nothing stuffy about this book!

One last thing. If you order copies from our website, as gifts, or for yourself, they can be signed and/or inscribed with a personal message. Just indicate that on the order form.

OK... enough with the sales pitch. Stay tuned for our next blog on vintage costume jewelry.

Till then Best to all!

Melody

Solving Vintage Issues with Vintage patterns

A few vintage patterns from my website




The vintage market has grown in leaps and bounds over the past decade or so. Today there is a vast selection of vintage venues and choices seem endless, however, nothing is perfect and there are situations where shopping for vintage can be illusive and frustrating.

Finding just what you want is fairly easy if you are a perfect smaller size but it can be more of a challenge for those of us with older, plumper or unique proportions. There is less to choose from and unfortunately a lot of larger vintage can be a tad matronly. That's not to say it's impossible to find great stuff in your size, it's just harder and if you have a specific look in mind the hunt becomes even more difficult. On another note some vintage can be fragile and risky to wear. Those diaphanous chiffon's from the 1930s or the beaded flapper dresses from the 20s look fine on a mannequin but the fabrics seldom hold up to anything but the most gentle use...just dancing in them can cause irreversible damage. Then there are those occasions when you need a specific color or yearn for a particular fabric and nothing you see is quite right. These are all great reasons to consider turning to vintage patterns.

Fortunately there are vintage patterns available for every imaginable article of clothing... dresses, suits, coats, lingerie, separates ....even swimsuits and aprons. You can buy vintage fabric and notions (old buttons and metal zippers) to make your garment as authentic as possible and if you are a real purist look for vintage sewing books to study old techniques for clothing construction

There are a few things you need to keep in mind when you sew from a vintage pattern. First is the issue of size. Vintage patterns go by really old standards of sizing which bear no resemblance to contemporary sizing. Disregard the size and note the measurements on the pattern then compare them to your own.

If you fall in love with a patten that does not match your measurements do not despair. Most patterns can be graded up or down to the desired size. It does help if you can find a pattern close to what you need. At the end of this blog are a few links to articles with clear grading instructions. You can also pay a better seamstress to grade your pattern for you if you don't feel confident trying it yourself.

Once you have purchased a vintage pattern you may notice that the pattern pieces have no markings on them and very early patterns might not even have much in the way of instruction. The reason for this is that most women were trained at sewing from a very early age and knew how to put a pattern together. If you are concerned about this take a look at the instructions from a similar style, modern pattern. They won't be exactly the same of course but you will get a general idea of the different steps you need to follow.

Tissue patterns are very fragile so I recommend you transfer them to heavy paper before starting. Just smooth out the pattern pieces and pin them to the paper then trace and cut. Before removing the tissue pattern pencil dots in the proper punch holes for grain, you will see these in your instructions. Connect the dots with a ruler to create your grain line this is imperative. Transfer any other marks you might need like fold lines and notches. At this point, grade your pattern for size if necessary.

Next I strongly recommend you sew a quick muslin or mock up of the garment before cutting into your costly fashion fabric, especially if it's vintage and you can't get any more!. You can do all your fitting on the muslin then transfer the alterations to your pattern. You only need to do this once and it can really prevent disaster later on.

If you love authentic vintage but have trouble finding what you desire then consider looking into making your own from vintage patterns. If you are fortunate enough to have a trusted seamstress and can afford to have your clothing made then I say indulge! Either way it will be a fun and rewarding project.

Until my next blog best to you all! Melody

Articles on grading patterns

How to Re size a Pattern

Making Sense of Pattern Grading

Quick Reference for Cut and Spread Pattern Grading

Grade a Bodice to a Larger Size

The Vintage Apron

Vintage aprons on my website


I have a lovely mother-in-law, Gloria, who is a wonderful cook. The minute she enters her kitchen, on goes the apron and when I offer to help she immediately hands me one as well. My own Mom, who is also a culinary wonder, keeps a ready stash of clean aprons under her counter. Until recent years, aprons were as essential in the kitchen as a frying pan. I'm not sure why modern culture has drifted away from their use, they really are quite practical and even fun to wear.

Everyday aprons were usually sturdy and practical, made from cotton or a blend. They had minimal embellishment, but tended to be attractive none the less. The fabric itself was often pretty and colorful. Florals, checks and stripes or solids with contrasting trim and pockets were popular. "Fancy" aprons were more for show. They might be romantic or even a bit saucy. Short flouncy things worn while the hostess served her guests....aprons of sheer chiffon or organza mixed with polished cotton and trimmed with lace, delicate eyelets, lovely cut work and all types of hand embroidery can be found on aprons from the twentieth century. AND lets not forget the barbecue apron made with the fellas in mind. I included a funky 70s version in the collage above....a heavy duty cotton canvas, from the 70s that simply reads THE APRON.

Whether you are looking for vintage aprons to wear or collect thankfully they abound on the market. Mint or barely used aprons are common. Most women had a plentiful supply (they were often given as gifts from "the kids") and duplicates or fancier ones were stored away. Even those who may not gravitate towards wearing vintage fashion seem to get a kick out of old aprons. AND they still make great gifts!!

Have a glorious day!

Melody

The Sturbridge Vintage Show

Hi all,

What a wonderful show we had in Sturbridge, Ma. yesterday! For those of you who have never been, the Sturbridge Antique Textiles and Vintage Clothing Show is one of the few of it's kind in the country. Three times a year, dealers travel from far and wide to showcase their finest vintage clothing and accessories. You never know what you might see....from Civil war Gowns to 80s designer... 30s chiffons, minis and maxis, sultry gowns and frothy party dresses.... accessories abound as well. Hats, handbags, jewelry and shoes. If you love vintage or just fashion in general it's like visiting the department store of your dreams!!



Baubles and bangles at the show!


...and lets not forget the racks and boxes just brimming with with yesteryear's fabrics and trims, buttons and notions....pure heaven for designers and crafters looking for the unique. There was a large designer turnout, mostly textile people. Without mentioning any names there seemed to be a trend for painterly abstract prints in bold colors, small repetitive prints and interesting geometrics. We will be watching the runways next year to see where this inspiration goes...

Till next time, take care and thanks for reading our blog!

Melody

Hidden meanings and Victorian symbolism.

Victorian culture spanned sixty years and went through a number of changes but one theme seems to have lasted throughout, sentimentality. There were always artistic undercurrents pushing back against this trend (think Oscar Wilde and Aubrey Beardsley), but in general, popular culture preferred to indulge in exaggerated emotion, be it in the name of love, joy or tragedy.

The tendency towards Victorian sentimentality manifested itself in a number of ways but one that I find intriguing is the complicated use of symbolism used to express feelings, thoughts or messages, most notably with the use of flowers. A simple bouquet or posy might thrill or devastate it’s recipient depending on the meanings of the flowers chosen. To add to the drama, not everyone attributed the same meaning to every flower. Flower symbolism had been around for centuries with varied histories so in time actual dictionaries were printed on the subject with each author having their own interpretations. For example lavender might mean devotion OR distrust. Imagine the misunderstanding (and possible mayhem) this could cause if both parties had different dictionaries! In general though, meanings were agreed upon. Victorian symbolism spilled over into other areas as well, particularly jewelry design. Just recently I acquired a lovely Victorian necklace and decided to try and interpret the meaning. It was great fun! Above is a picture of the necklace that was sold from my website. Below I will give you the meanings of the images and materials used



Swallow - Faithfully returning home/ or just home. Supposedly the swallow was one of the first birds to land on deck when a ship was close to land, not surprisingly, aside from a popular motif for jewelry it was also a favorite tattoo for sailors!

Seed Pearls - purity, innocence, harmony and humility

Three Leaf Clover – domestic virtue and fertility. Also a white clover signifies a promise and these tiny clovers have a white seed pearl in the center

Forget me not – Faithful love

As soon as I put the symbols together the meaning seemed obvious, I was certain this had to be a bridal gift.... and much to my delight, upon further research I found out that seed pearl jewelry was a customary gift for a young woman turning 18 yrs OR a bride before her wedding!

There are lots of resources to research Victorian symbols. If you are interested I suggest you start with the Internet and look up key words like the "language of flowers" or "Victorian symbolism". It’s great fun and I guarantee you will never look at Victorian jewelry the same way again!

Until our next blog, enjoy and take care!

Melody

The Notorious Midi!

A protest Midi Skirt button from 1970

Skirt lengths have been a subject for controversy for decades, usually this happened for reasons of modesty, as they began to rise above accepted standards. Throughout most of the Victorian years, showing just an ankle would raise eyebrows, so during the teens it was scandalous when skirts began to hovered a few inches above the shoe and in the 1920s, flapper dresses, which rose all the way to the knee, provoked out and out...outrage.

Who would have predicted, that in the late 60s - early 70s, at the height of the mini skirts popularity, a falling hemline could cause similar public reaction? The later 1960s saw a number of fashion trends, one being a preoccupation with all things romantic and/or nostalgic. Think Biba + Deco or the Early, Gunne Sax, prairie dress. Longer hemlines were being created for casual and day wear. The look wasn't for everyone but it had it's place and as always, terms were coined for the emerging new styles.

In these years since, people tend to call every long dress from this era a Maxi dress but if you were around at the time you knew differently. A Maxi skirt was gown length, to the floor or at least to the top of the shoe. The Midi on the other hand, might fall anywhere from calf to ankle. I remember clearly, a newspaper fashion article in 1969 featuring three versions of an identical gingham dress in Maxi, Midi and Mini lengths. Designers like Valentino and Bohan experimented with these longer styles and according to a vintage Time Magazine article, John Burr Fairchild of Women's Wear Daily, announced that 1970 was to be the year of the Midi.

The ensuing controversy reached heights that, I'm sure, even Mr. Fairchild never expected. It was one thing for the adventurous and artistic to champion an exotic trend but for the style Monarch himself to decree that mainstream fashion was to embrace such a drastic change created a furor.





An embroidered Wool Midi Skirt from my website



Women vowed to never give up their mini skirts and according to the same Time article " A protest signed by 335 customers of the Sanger-Harris store in Dallas reads: "We object strongly to being suppressed into buying the midi exclusively. We like looking feminine and intend staying that way, even if it means shopping elsewhere."

The male population was no happier as you can imagine. Men of all ages were still pinching themselves over the daily parade of pretty legs, that the mini skirt had made possible and they were NOT about to give it up without a protest.

Even the garment industry let out a wail. The same Time Magazine article quotes Irene Johns, president of the Association of Buying Offices as saying..."by starting to push the midi last winter, Women's Wear killed not only the fall season for manufacturers but the spring season too."

Good grief, all of this over a skirt length! And a longer one to boot... I was a young teen in those days and actually liked the new Midi skirt. I found it less cumbersome than the Maxi and was charmed by it's sense of nostalgia. I just loved watching old movies with women in their feminine frocks that reached below the knee. PLUS, on a more practical note, living in New England could get pretty drafty in a mini skirt! For me the Midi was a blessing but it was years before I found out about the tempest it had stirred, not until I had begun researching vintage clothing. I can tell you this, once you delve into the history of fashion you will never be bored!


Until our next blog take care and best to all.

Melody

Sources for this article:

Time Magazine, Monday, Sep. 14, 1970, Out on a Limb with the Midi
Stop the Midi button Dudley's Vintage Ads & Prints